2026 Days 10 & 11 – Salisbury

With a requirement to return to Exeter for the start of September, practicality binds us to southern England.  In doing so, it’s inevitable that we’re travelling familiar routes.  There is a bonus though – encore visits take some pressure off sightseeing and allow for much needed mental and physical rest. 

We take advantage of the Park & Ride service to the city centre – a great service in larger towns where parking a 5 tonne vehicle can prove problematic.  It’s busy, busy, busy.  School and University summer breaks have collided and the centre is teeming with both tourists and locals with free time on their hands.

Now I’m going to cheat a bit, given we were in Salisbury in 2019, I won’t cover old ground.

If you’re keen on reading about Salisbury ‘s magnificent cathedral and the Magna Carta it proudly displays, please click on the link below to our last visit.   You’ll also see the the impact of the heatwave that’s torched the UK this last month. In 2019, lush greenery was the order of the day.   I’m cheating a bit I know….but give a girl a break.

With sight seeing pressure off, we opt for Himself’s favourite past time – lunch.  If there was a gold medal for lunching, Sir Lunchalot, aka Himself, would surely be clutching gold on the podium.   Not far from one of the ancient city gates, Thai is the choice d’jour – a passable salt and pepper squid and a rather good green curry. 

Post lunch we pop in to Mompessen, an 18th century townhouse in the heart of Salisbury Cathedral Close. 

Featured in the film Sense and Sensibility, Mompessen was built in Queen Anne style with beautiful plaster work, a solid oak staircase and features very fine period furniture. 

The rear garden is looking rather sad with a number of trees unlikely to survive. 

Mompessen also houses one of the best displays of English 18th century glassware held in the UK.  I can’t imagine how these delicate pieces have managed to survive three centuries. 

The National Trust is very clever in keeping its historic homes relevant to return visitors.  This summer, Mompessen features preparations for a grand ball with lessons in dress, dance, games and etiquette.  The etiquette lessons in particular are fascinating, some detailing how young ladies of the day were schooled in ‘catching a gentleman’s eye’ without risking their reputations or raising matronly eyebrows: ardent feminists are at high risk of apoplexy. 

Day’s end leaves time for a wander through the cloisters and cathedral grounds – look at that beautiful stone wall, bowed by the centuries.   

Crisped grass is starting to get to me I’m afraid – I’d rather wish I could stand with a hose and make a small difference. 

The following day is officially declared a day of rest.  I can hear Himself’s audible sigh of relief.  Besides, it’s hot and we’re in a lovely shady peaceful nook.  And there are a myriad of house elf duties to attend to: laundry, cleaning and the like, and there’s a book calling my name.  It’s a welcome respite from the busy pace of the last fortnight.

I manage a little adventure and make a new friend though – a wee mousey.  Himself spots him first: a tentative bewhiskered nose emerging from a hedgerow.  He’s trying to harvest blackberries but they’re just out of reach.  We can’t have that – I see my opportunity.  A small but tempting larder is set up.  Sun kissed berries and a bite of plum prove irresistible.  He emerges, collects an initial offering and starts to fill his larder, one treat at a time.  Little pet.  We work in tandem throughout the day until I’m sure little mousey bellies will be full for a while.  It really doesn’t take much to entertain me….