Well isn’t this a bonus: we’re revisiting Windsor! It happened quite inadvertently, workshopping how to get to Richmond to visit all things Ted Lasso. It’s not as simple as it sounds. Richmond is in the low emission zone which we aren’t compliant with. If we were in a car, I’d drive and pay the £12.50 daily fee, but to take the motorhome into a low emission zone costs between £100 – £300 per day and no one appears quite sure as to where we fit in that scale. And there’s nowhere to park it. Windsor however is perfectly placed to catch a Southwestern Western Rail train directly to Richmond, so Windsor it is! Thank goodness I had the wherewithal to convert our tickets into an annual pass.
Two months on from our first visit, the frenetic crush of tourists has somewhat slackened. Some parts of the Castle are closed for maintenance including the formal Venus Gardens and the Moat Garden. The latter is only opened a few days each year – we were lucky to see it last time.
There’s still plenty to see of course. We start with St George Chapel, glorious as ever.
I’m obsessed with the perfect workmanship in the 13th century Gilebertus door.
On exit from the Chapel, two guards march the parade ground at full clip: MAKE WAY they bellow – the unfortunate tourist bottom left is in their path, his startled jump is quite priceless.
Much quieter in the Tudor horseshoe cloister in the Lower Ward.
The iconic Round Tower is as formidable as ever. It houses the Royal Archives, historic documents, diaries and official State papers goimg back centuries. One can only imagine the secrets contained within.
There’s pleasing evidence that the gardens are recovering from summer scorch.
We have only a brief wait to tour Queen Mary’s dollhouse and the State Apartments.
Standing in queue I spot the flint chip detail in the mortar, effective as both a feature and a very sharp deterrent to any mischief.
There’s a bonus in visiting between October and March – three additional rooms are open in the State Apartments: the Crimson Drawing Room,
the State Dining Room
and the Octagonal Dining Room. We connect back to the original tour path through a long corridor displaying royal dining settings, some of which date back centuries. Coincidentally, this was the table setting at Sandringham.
Of all the opulence showcased, aside from the Gilebertus Door, my favourite is the State Bed in the King’s Bedchamber. Made for George IV in the late 18th century is was reupholstered in imperial colours for Napoleon III’s State Visit in 1855. The silk hangings are glorious – I rather fancy minxing about in that bed.
The quadrangle a verdant green and in the process of being mowed. Try as I might, the lawnmower remains in shot.
Without the gardens to explore it’s a much shorter tour, not helped by inclement weather that doesn’t encourage lingering outdoors.
Still, there’s the rest of Windor to explore: the Guildhall where King Charles married Camilla in a private ceremony that would have undoubtedly been constitutionaly complex. I’d imagine their choice of location would have pleased many a local – the Guildhall is a popular local spot for weddings.
The long walk shows signs of recovery and offers a private view of the castle.
Next to the Long Walk entrance is the Two Brewers pub, stood here since 1792 – full of character and the perfect spot to prop for an afternoon drinks. We try pork scratchings for the first time and pronounce them delicious.
Ascot entry tickets festooned with champagne corks decorate the bar – very little risk of racegoers lacking refreshment it seems.
We leave in the golden hour, Windsor still at last in late afternoon’s long shadows.
PS: If you’d like to see the Venus Gardens, the Moat Garden or more of the State Apartments and St George’s Chapel, I’ve attached a link to our first Windsor visit below. Indoor photographs in both posts are from the guidebook: indoor photographs are not permitted in any royal residence.
