It sounds like we’ve travelled miles today, doesn’t it? In reality it’s a series of short hops along the Opal Coast, a mere 24 km in total.
Our first stop is Wimereux, ostensibly for supplies but we miss the noon close by minutes. Sundays are taken seriously in France. A short walk to the seafront it is, for a boulangerie treat instead.
I don’t think I’ll ever tire of the charm of these seaside Belle Epoque houses.
Himself meanwhile purrs around a Morgan. He has a (not so) secret hankering for a vintage sports car. Once upon a time, he had an Austin Healey. Pity he didn’t have the foresight to keep it until I came along. It was red too. *Sigh* 😭
The beach is looking very inviting – it’s warm enough to swim and quite a few people are enjoying the water.
No time to stop, Himself wants to get to Cap Gris Nez, so off we go. This section of the coast is covered in German bunkers that once housed anti aircraft and heavy, long range artillery – it has a brutal history.
WWII cross Channel battles earnt Cap Gris Nez the name ‘Hellfire Corner’ – over two thousand 280 mm shells were fired at England from here during 1942. It was a portent of things to come. In an attempt to capture the cape in September 1944, 600 bombers dropped more than 6,000 bombs on the cape, riddling the countryside with deep craters.
While farmers set about filling the damage post war, sections of the cliff that aren’t under crop still bear the scars. It’s sobering to see their impact: 6,000 bombs – it’s a wonder the cliff didn’t collapse.
Today, Cap Gris Nez is a peaceful green oasis. It even has sheep with jobs, the heritage Boulonnais breed. Known for their hardiness, strength and modest food requirements, a mere 2,500 Boulonnais sheep remain across 45 local farms. One farm is tasked with the responsibility of maintaining the Cape’s grasslands. As I said, sheep with jobs. And a view!
A Channel swimmer lands to resounding cheers as we walk a series of trails.
Quite right too, what an extraordinary achievement. Dover’s white cliffs are just visible across the Channel – I assure you they’re a very long way away. If you squint, you can just make them out in the distance below, the swimmer is the dot behind the boat!
Paths thoroughly explored we make our final hop for for day, to beachside Wissant. The timing is perfect for afternoon drinks by the sea. It’s a lovely way to end the day, made all the better for finally finding my favourite gelato for the walk home. Amarena, a very special Italian preserved cherry. Divine!
