It never ceases to fascinate me just how differently men’s brains are wired. Occasionally we inadvertently retrace our steps and end up, quite unexpectedly, at a spot we’ve been before. Given that Himself drives, it’s usually me who twigs to the encore – a unique church, a restaurant, or perhaps the boulangerie triggering a memory. But today it’s him: ‘we’ve been here before’ says he ‘I remember where the bins are’. I kid you not, you can’t make this stuff up.
It might be mid afternoon but I can’t resist dragging Himself out to explore. It’s a glorious day and perilously close to coffee o’clock, a surefire motivater if ever there was one.
We’re in Saint Valery sur Somme on an estuary of the River Somme. The village is neatly divided into three distinct areas so there’s lots to explore: the prettily beflowered ‘new’ villiage – still gloriously old by Australian standards:
But for me, the Citi Medievale is the jewel in Saint Valery sur Somme’s crown. We explored it thoroughly on our first visit, but I can’t resist popping for a quick refresh.
We see the Porte de Nevers, built in the 16th century and once the village prison.
There’s the two nave Eglise Saint Martin, constructed across the 15th – 16th centuries with its striking stonework and pretty garden.
Inside is an extraordinary mosaic war memorial, each fallen soldier’s name intricately set out in delicate tile. What a labour of love and respect – I’ve zoomed in so you can see the detail.
Half timbered cottages add the medieval charm. There’s lots more to see but the coffee monkey is calling….
I’ve spied cafes and more lovely houses along the waterside boardwalk.
Himself always becomes a little wistful on spotting these old Volkswagen combi vans – his first European adventure was in an orange and cream version, almost 50 years ago now. I have no idea how they managed it – no shower, no bathroom, no space! For all those inconveniences though, he was lucky to see Europe before it was overwhelmed by tourism.
The boardwalk conveniently leads us to the Quartier des Marins where boats are coming in from their afternoon seal adventures. Seals! Very high on my ‘to do’ list – one of my (very) many favourite creatures.
There’s also a steam train that runs to Le Crotoy. We caught it last time from this cute train station and enjoyed a great day.
It’s a speed lap of the village, reasoning we’ll have tomorrow to explore properly, but it’s not to be. On return the Aire is surprisingly empty despite being almost full when we left. Himself investigates. We have to move, says he, the site’s closed tomorrow. So much for my seal tour…
Le Crotoy is only a short hop over the estuary but it takes a surprising time to drive the next morning.
Joan of Arc was imprisoned here for a month in 1430, during her transfer to Rouen for trial on the charge of heresy. She’s honoured in stone in the waterfront and in one of the particularly lovely stained glass windows in the church.
It’s a complex relationship, France and Joan of Arc – in her short life she was a hero who led troops to victory in a number of key battles in the Hundred Year War, imprisoned accused of heresy and burnt at the stake only to then become venerated as Saint. Complex.
It’s a much quieter pace this side of the estuary.
Still, there’s an excellent boulangerie and cheese shop. I discover a new treat, a delicate baked cream in a crepe – delicious.
We observe the extraordinary tide rushing in, barely managed by the lock designed to reduce its impact.
And while the locals play boule, we settle harbourside for drinks. It’s very odd weather – warm yesterday, rainy and cold today.
