We’ve taken leave of Cherbourg, moving a short hop down the coast. At first this throws me – what do you mean we’re stopping here? What will we do? But eventually I settle and look around. There’s a woodland walk to the Viaduc de Fermanville.
Built in the early 1900s, the viaduct linked the Cherbourg to Barfleur railway between 1912 and 1950. Standing an impressive 32 meters high, it’s made up of its 20 arches over 242 meters.
The path is lined with a promising autumn harvest – chestnuts, beech and hazelnuts. Wherever local squirrels and deer are hidden, they’ll eat well this year.
We pass a deconsecrated church, slowly being reaclaimed by the forest
and pretty stone cottages. Some pre date the viaduct and feature along the path in historical photos describing the build.
Our hike ends at the local church where a stream of visitors pay their respects to loved ones lost. Bells peal on the hour setting the pace of village life.
The small river Poult runs alongside, where an occasional shy trout can be spotted.
Nearby, fat bumbles are busy at summer’s end. They patiently submit to pats. I wish we had them at home – they’re a very sweet bee, not in the least inclined to sting.
An ancient horse drawn mill sits next to where we’re parked. It was once used to grind industrial plants: hemp for ropes, flax for sails and paints, rapeseed for lamp oil, woad and madder for paints and dyes – all plants that required grinding prior to use. The woodland path we walked was the old path to the mill.
It’s somewhat out of character, but I may well be adapting to a slower pace. Time will tell.
Miss Baci Travels 