There’s much more to the champagne region than Epernay of course. It’s one of 357 villages dotted though Champagne’s valleys surrounded by lush vine greenery.
We have a helpful map that details routes to see the region’s best, through each of the five AOC approved growing areas. Ours takes us north through the Parc Naturel Regional de la Montagne between Epernay and Reims, in the Massif de Saint Thierry and Montagne de Reims growing areas.
We learn a little more along the way. Chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier grapes rule here, the classic trio in champagne’s blend. Some 19,000 vignerons grow across the 5 areas, some operating a plots as small as 100 square metres. They grow across 32,000 hectares for 370 champagne houses. Note to self: a nice change from book club perhaps – a champagne club to taste as many as possible? As it is, the world pops the cork on 327 million bottles of champagne annually. It’s an impressive effort.
The smaller houses are clustered throughout the five drives, proving without a doubt that one can have the full champagne experience without stepping a foot in Epernay. They’re often set within vineyards, offer ample parking and a quieter pace. The village of Vaudemange, as an example, has 13 houses to choose from alone.
This is beautiful, gently undulating land. Vines extend as far as the eye can see at every turn. It’s deeply calming, surrounded by their bright greenery. Every so often we see a mechanical pruner trimming rows into their traditional narrow shape. Quite interesting that they’re able to do this well into the growing season – established clusters of grapes feature on all the vines we see. Most farms refrain from use of pesticides. We pass quite a number of villages proudly displaying their bio status.
Eventually though we have to press on. Despite enjoying an incredibly flexible time frame on our travels there always comes a point when you have to pay the piper and make the crossing back to the UK.
We drive on for an hour or so, eventually stopping in Saint Quentin along a canal. Having spent most of the day driving, it’s a welcome relief to stretch our legs and walk into town.
Saint Quentin is getting into the Olympic spirit, setting up a beach in the main square, complete with Eiffel Tower and deck chairs. I’m not sure of the thinking here – Paris isn’t beachside, but it does lend a party atmosphere.
We see some rather grand buildings on our way including an enormous statue commemorating a battle with Italy in the 1500s.
Further along is the Saint Quentin Basilica with its labyrinth marbled entryway, built in 1495. It has an interesting frontage – seemingly from a completely different period, poles apart from the rear.
Inside it’s highly decorated but needs a lot of work to restore finishes. I’m itching to pick up a duster. Luckily there’s a major refurbishment underway – I wonder if they’ll reaign the architectural periods? Either way, if Saint Quentin is ever besieged by giant lizards, I believe they’re well covered – they’ve just the saint for it. 😂
We potter a little longer – it’s quite a pretty spot.
I particularly like these adventuring dogs, touring Italy to pick up treats for the delicatessen they’re painted on. Woof – I’ll take those sausages thanks and what can you show me in a smoked rib? 😂
Days end sees us canal side again. It’s not the first canal we’ve seen with waters overbrimming. France must have had a very wet spring – the canals are the highest I’ve ever seen them.
The wind has stilled by late afternoon, offering great reflective shots across the water.
Miss Baci Travels 