Is there anything more eponymous with celebration than champagne? It’s the first thing we reach for when there’s an engagement, a marriage, buying the house of your dreams, a baby’s arrival or winning a hard earned promotion. Champagne has integrated its way into our happiest memories over centuries. AOP protected, there’s only one place in the world it’s made and it’s here, France’s Champagne region. A tightly held parcel of land responsible for every authentic bubble popped in a raised glass.
Epernay sits a short 130 km north east of Paris. Originally owned by the archbishops of Reims until the 10th century, it then passed into the ownership of the Dukes of Champagne. The region originaly produced red wine: it wasn’t untill 1693 that Champagne as we know it was ‘invented’. The monk, Dom Perignon, is generally accredited as its father. Upon tasting a “spoilt” batch of pinot noir he is said to have exclaimed “come quickly – I’m tasting the stars!” He was the first to master bottling his effervescent find and may I just say on behalf of all the girls I know – merci beaucoup. Thank you very much indeed 🥂.
I’ll not be the only girl for whom Epernay is a favourite – the jewel in Champagne’s crown. With its cobbled Avenue de Champagne featuring the world’s largest champagne houses, it’s easy to leave the real world behind and fall headlong into the lure of old world glamour.
We’ve toured most of the biggest champagne houses on past visits – Moet Chandon, Verve Clicquot, Pommery, Pol Roger. Each fascinating, different in their own unique way, not to mention the oh so hard to take tastings at each tour’s end. Instead of doing another tour this time, we elect instead visit the Museum de Champagne, set in the historic Perrier Jouet chateau.
And what a good decision it turned out to be. It’s brimming with displays across many levels covering everything from the Chateau’s and a long gone Cathedral’s history,
the region’s archeological timeline through millennia,
champagne’s timeline and production,
collectibles from the Chateau’s original owner,
and interactive displays, including one that encourages us to guess the various olfactory elements of champagne’s undertones.
My absolute favourite though is the formal white and gold room featuring a four wood parquetry floor. My bags are packed. I’m ready to move in at a moment’s notice – send a driver please and pop a bottle on ice.
The tour ends underground through the Chateau’s extensive cellars and ventilation shafts.
Later, there’s lunch. Himself’s appetite is stuck in burger mode whilst I have a burrata pesto salad. Champagne to accompany, of course. A cheeky chocolate entremet to share over coffee.
Later, we tour Epernay’s grand Hotel D’Ville and its grounds,
and walk the Avenue de Champagne admiring its elegant architecture and grand entrances.
The day’s topped with a tasting – a combined offering from Domaines Testulat, Jannison Baradon and Patrick Boivin. We order a degustation each, startling our waitress. We’re none the wiser as to why until a table of five sits down and orders two tastings between them. 😂🥂 Three 100 ml glasses each isn’t really that much champagne is it? It’s not as if we’re driving. Needless to say, they’re delicious. We pick a favourite bottle for later.
We cycle home happy, spotting yet another gorgeous old church along the way. It’s been a full and busy day. Epernay stands up well to repeat visits. Just as well too. I’m not done with champagne yet….
Miss Baci Travels 