Some places leave marks on your heart, pretty as a picture, straight out a fairytale. These are the places you hope to revisit and if you’re really lucky, revisit yet again. Much of Germany was so and nestled on its border’s edge in Alsace, amongst the endless greenery of vineyards, is lovely Egiusheim. Truly an enchanting place and so richly deserving of its Les Plus Beaux Village of France title.
Perfectly circular in its layout, Egiusheim was wealthy from the start. Built across the 15th and 16th centuries, it’s a rare example of a village without an embattled past. Pursuits here were liquid in nature. Winemaking to be precise, very successfully too. Alsatian wines are delightful, crisp Reislings, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminers and sparkling Cremants to name but a few. Brightly fresh, they’re very easy drinking, perfectly paired to a summer’s day.
We arrive late in the day, lucky to catch Egiusheim in a rare moment of quiet – it’s usually buzzing with crowds. It’s just as pretty as remembered, bursting with flowers and meticulously presented.
Egiusheim’s bright colours are a relatively new addition. Prior to the 19th and 20th centuries, colours were muted earthy tones. In amongst all the peacocks, a little brown hen reveals itself, serving to remind us of the original facades.
Egiusheim has another claim to fame. One of its sons rose to the giddy height of Pope in in 1002 – Pope Leo IX. On hearing his calling, he donned his cloak, picked up his staff and walked to Rome. Walked. That’s quite an achievement, given that it’s 1,063 kilometres even on modern roads. That’s him below, immortalised in the central square below the Chapel of the Chateau Saint-Leon – interior shots below.
Above the chapel and on a series of other prominent buildings are enormous storks nests, each with doting parents and almost fully grown babies practicing their wings prior to fledging.
We end the day at a wine bar, enjoying a grand cru reisling. Himself, pressing hard for the acquisition of an electric bike, looks on with envy as a group of cyclists zoom by. He’s desperate for one, soon to be purchased on arrival home I suspect.
You’ll not be surprised that the next day calls for lunch. Alsatian fare, sauerkraut with various wursts and smoked meats for Himself while I have a classic rosti topped with wild mushrooms. Servings lean to Germanic portions which we struggle to finish even though the food is delicious.
Later in the day, a festival emerges in the main square. In celebration of a grand cru harvest I believe, but also Bastille the following day. The square’s buzzing with the thump of music, pop up wine bars and a woodfired oven churning endless flammenkuche – the Alsace nod to pizza with its wafer thin base topped with creme fraiche and a smattering of lardon and onion. I’m a big fan. They’re light as a feather and utterly delicious. I feel for the storks though, looking down disapprovingly from above. It’s going to be a hard night for them with all the noise.
Late afternoon sees us on the tourist train. We usually avoid these, but this one takes us through the vines with great views over the village. We learn a little more about Egiusheim’s history, winemaking, grape varieties, learn that one of the domains has underground cellars that house over 200,000 bottles and see the three towers, remnants of chateau past.
We also see the Eglise Saint Pierre et Saint Paul, built in the 11th – 14th centuries (topped with storks!) and its 13th century Madonna.
And after all that, yesterday reisling was so lovely that we go back for another, accompanied by a sparrow fledgling begging for his supper. Bumbles too – look at that gorgeous fuzzy butt!
Having visited in 2018, 2019 and again this year, I’m pleased to report that Egiusheim still holds its charm. I wouldn’t rule out another visit in the future. Utterly delightful.
Miss Baci Travels 