2019 Day 37 – Ivrea

So. Yesterday didn’t go as well as it could have, but a new day offers a fresh new beginning. I’m training my eye (not always successfully) to refrain from drifting to the bottom left corner of my phone (sob) and Google has kindly furnished a windscreen repair workshop nearby.

It’s the latter we head for first. Himself fears hitting a large pothole, the stress of which might just see the whole windscreen collapse before repair. Sadly, once you’re off the motorways, northern Italy’s roads are bone jaringly awful. Wherever public monies are being diverted, it’s surely not on road repair.

The windscreen repair is a matter of moments and relative inexpense. My phone won’t be as lucky I fear – I’ll need to nurture it until I’m home.

We’ve decided to stay put for the day, to enjoy a leisurly lunch and the afternoon river breeze. It’s still blisteringly hot, and after yesterday’s double trauma we could both do with a bit of down time.

Himself has selected the nearby Aquila Nera Ristorante. It’s a good choice for self medicating with a little of the region’s finest. We share a local DOP San Daniele prosciutto with a fine burrata. If there was ever a gift from the white cheese gods, burrata is surely up there. Its creamy texture is the perfect counter to the salty, melt in your mouth, prosciutto.

To follow, Himself has the scallopini vitello di vino bianco (divine).

I have an excellent calamari fritti – one of the best I’ve had, cooked to tender perfection.

An excellent Sicilian vino bianco does its best to put yesterday firmly in the rear vision mirror. Espressos round out lunch. If you can’t get faultless coffee in Italy, where could you?

Temperaments are a little more relaxed post lunch. The heat of the day has descended – the only way to cope is feet up in the shade, a good book on call with the river cooled breeze wafting over.

The evening is spent peacefully, at least as peaceful as it can be, near the river’s roar. By late evening, the change catches up with us. Finally.