As far as our travels through Lyon took us yesterday, there’s one place we didn’t quite make – its famous fine food market, Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse.
Named for the revered chef, a Lyon region native, who influenced French food culture for over 60 years, it’s considered a must see for those with a foodie bent.
It’s surprisingly modern, remodelled quite recently, showcasing 48 providers along with a series of adjunct restaurants and bars. There’s an enormous array of produce on offer from charcuterie, cheese, Lyonnaise specialities, truffles, patisserie, fresh seafood, meats and endless oysters.
I’d happily pore over every inch, but Himself is in imminent danger of starvation, so lunch first it is. Now, despite a great love of food, there are things that we both dislike – offal is one. Raw oysters another. They’re both rather prevelant on menus in the market. It’s this that creates a bit of drama and causes a bit of a misstep in choosing lunch. Offal is a Lyonnaise speciality, so by the time we eliminate dishes there, and all the oyster bars, neither of us wants steak, salad or pasta, we both settle on a veal milanese. It ends up being a schnitzel, and a rather average one at that. At least the salad and chips are excellent.
I’m a bit spoilt, to be fair – Chris makes the world’s best schnitzel, crumbed in sourdough flavoured with parmesan, parsley and lemon rind, pan fried in butter and oil. If I’d known it was schnitzel, I would never have ordered it. The Cote d’Rhone wine was excellent though.
Post lunch, there’s time to explore in a little more detail.
Oh I wish we were here at the start of our trip, with an empty refrigerator/pantry versus towards the end when I have to run supplies down. I’d be dragging bags home.
Instead we settle for a few irresistible things before we drag ourselves off along a series of restaurant filled streets.
Les Halles is one of a series of markets in Lyon – we ran into another on the way there. This one was more focussed on fresh fruit and vegetables.
You really could eat very well in Lyon, the produce is excellent.
Back across both rivers, we’ve time to stop in at the Roman theatre ruins before we leave. I ran out of light yesterday on the way back from the Bascilca.
There’s not an enormous amount of information to hand about the ruins, but after the many gladiatorial arenas we’ve seen, these are performance areas.
There are at least two theatres, one smaller than the other, and what seems like endless rooms behind them.
The smaller theatre, incredibly, still has its intricate marble floor intact.
It’s very beautiful, especially as the colours have been brought out by the earlier rain.
All too soon, it’s time to leave. We’ve loved our time in Lyon and will definitely come back again.
It’s late in the day so we don’t go far, some 30 or so kilometres further north, settling at a vineyard: Earl Coquard Pierre Et Fils – Domaine de Champ Fleury has been in the same family for 300 years. We’re lucky to be in time for a tasting in their ancient cellar.
It’s a good end to a fabulous couple of days. The late afternoon light is just the cherry on top.