Boulogne sur Mer beckons with the promise of a beautiful cathedral, a fortified Haute Ville and, very excitingly, Europe’s largest aquarium.
It’s somewhat daunting driving into a large town when you’ve enjoyed country roads for months but we eventually find our Aire with clifftop with views across the water. Fabulous, but it’s a long steep climb to the centre. Our meandering path is decorated with building street art – my favourite is this trompe l’oeil library, you’d never guess that this was an absolutely flat wall.
We’ve worked up quite a thirst by the time we arrive.
We’re just outside the fortification walls of the Haute Ville in a square surrounded by charming buildings. Note the clear ‘Cinderella’ coach!
A short walk away is the impressive Basilica of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, formerly the Cathedral of Notre Dame. Built in the 19th century, it features a 101 metre dome and the largest crypt in France.
We learn that the original medieval cathedral was destroyed after the French Revolution then reconstructed in a neo classical style between 1827 and 1866 by local priest Abbé Haffreingue. Incredibly, he did so without formal architectural training, instead drawing inspiration from St Peter’s and St Paul’s in Rome and London respectively. An extremely ambitious undertaking – thank goodness the bureaucracy of building permits wasn’t around then!
The interior of the dome is beautifully decorated. The crypt can also be toured but I’ll admit we skipped it – we’re both a bit ‘churched out’ at this stage.
Haute Ville’s ramparts fortification have an ancient history. The ramparts were built on the boundaries of the Roman castrum of Bolonia, on top of the Roman foundations between 1227 and 1231. They’re almost perfectly preserved.
The rampart walkways offer locals a generous and suprisingly modern green space with views of the city walls and gardens. They have to be lapped, of course – the magnitude of the fortification only becomes apparent when you walk it. We’ve walked a great number of ancient town walls – Boulogne sur Mer’s is seriously impressive.
Access points to Haute Ville were through one of four access gates: the Porte Gayole, Porte de Calais, Porte des Dunes and the Porte des Degrés, all still in use.
The Château de Boulogne sur Mer, complete with moat and drawbridge, is built into a key defensive corner of the fortification. I do love a good moat. Don’t fancy visitors? Pull up your drawbridge and you needn’t even answer the front door….
Built by Count Philippe Hurepel of Boulogne in 1231 to counter a perceived weakness in the fortifications, the chateau has successively been home to the Counts of Boulogne, a military barracks and a prison before becoming a museum in 1988.
Himself eventually starts for home, cleverly finding a flatter, beachside path. We’re right at the top on that cliff.
Just as well these sand surfers aren’t running – it’s his kind of boy’s toy.
A spectacular sunset ends out day – steep climbs aside, cliffs do have their advantages. We’re booked too see the Nausicaa aquarium tomorrow – I can’t wait!
Bright eyed bushy tailed the following morning, I’ve done my research and booked an earlier entry and lunch in the restaurant. The website says to allow 4.5 hours and I’ll want to see everything! It’s all I can do to not skip down in excitement.
A self led tour and audio guide takes us through a series of experiences. First is the ‘Voyage on the High Seas’ a recreation of Malpelo Islan’s seas off the coast of Colombia. It’s absolutely incredible – thousands of fish and other sea creatures gracefully swimming through an ocean of water. We experience it from a number of angles including a walk through tunnel where everyone swims over and around us. At 10 million litres it’s Europe’s largest aquarium,
In amongst all manner of rays, sharks and schools of fish is the most magnificent manta ray. Larger than a good sized sedan, its movements are mesmerisingly balletic. I could have happily spent the day watching him alone.
Next is ‘In the Eye of the Climate’ an immersive 430 m² room with 360° projections that take us through a thought provoking journey showing the impact of climate change. Surround projections place us on the ground of low laying islands as they flood in high tide and the extent of our receeding polar icecaps. It’s a stark reminder of the damage that’s unfolding.
The ‘Shores and Men’ area showcases a series of aquariums that take us on a journey through the North Sea, the Mediterranean, the tropics and the Californian coast. The displays are breathtaking – so many colourful species of fish and aquatic creatures. It’s extraordinary what lies below the ocean’s surface.
The corals are an absolute revelation with their soft villi in constant motion – it’s the first time I’ve seen live coral up close. It’s quite spellbinding and so colourful!
Can I just express at this point, how glad I am that this prehistoric shark is no longer around. Himself is barely a snack.
Much more my speed is this big boy ‘built for comfort’ elephant seal.
Our wanderings are perfectly timed to arrive for our restaurant booking – in addition to all the incredible sea creatures, Nausicaa has a fine dining restaurant overlooking a series of tropical aquariums.
Himself has a smoked tuna entree followed by a monk fish curry. It’s another new taste revelation I’ll need to source once home – monk fish has a mild sweet flavour, very similar to lobster.
I have the pork pluma and a poached pear dessert with bay leaf icecream. I just couldn’t bring myself to order fish in the aquarium. An Cote de Provenance rose rounds the meal out nicely before we sail forth once more.
There’s an extensive display of all things amphibious and aquatic adjacent – we’re watched carefully by this Cayman. Look at her pretty eye! Between you and me, I’m pretty sure she’s wearing waterproof eyeliner.
And just as we think our day is done, we’re at the Californian sea lion enclosure where the keepers and five gorgeous sea lions demonstrate a series of behaviour skills designed to assist in their care and management. The baby is a bit of a ham and plays to the crowd for applause. Adorable. 🥰
For the many, many photos I took, it’s impossible to do Nausicaa justice. Himself and I are in full agreement – it’s one of the best travel experiences we’ve had and by far, the best aquarium. We took six hours to see everything and enjoy lunch, but I could have easily stayed six more – penguins were somewhere that we failed to find.
If you’re ever in Boulogne sur Mer, do not miss Nausicaa under any circumstances and don’t be deceived by its modest exterior – it’s like the tardis on the inside. In its 35th anniversary year, Nausicaa should take a bow – it’s absolutely magnificent.
