Ah the lovely Dieppe. We only discovered it in 2024 and we’re back! Himself dubbed it ‘Honfleur on speed’ the first time around. He had a point – in between the series of harbours, yachts and endless restaurants it’s similar but oh so much larger.
One nice thing about an encore visit is that the pressure to sightsee is off. Having walked Dieppe’s length and breadth on our first visit, and hiked up the hill to the imposing castle museum, we’re content just to wander at will and enjoy.
Our meanderings take us through the harbour to the ocean beach beyond – it runs for kilometres.
There’s no sand, flint nodules make up the forseshore – no running on the beach in bare feet here! A few enterprising souls have laid wooden tracks to ease access. The white beach huts spotted elsewhere are here too, some as food huts. They’re set off the beach, understandable given the extreme tides this coast is known for.
Even though we saw the sights on our last trip, I can’t quite help myself. We walk to the headland, the castle perched on high. Founded in 1188 by King Henry II of England, only to be destroyed in 1195 by King Philip II of France (rude, it was brand new) it was finally restored in the 14th century. If you’re visiting Dieppe it’s worth hiking up the hill to visit, it houses an extensive and very good museum.
The sole remaining mediaeval city gate sits below. Built in in the 15th century and used as a prison until the 1800s, it was once one of five gates that faced the sea guarding the city.
It looks quite residential from the rear view.
I rather fancy this kite, balletic in the wind, one of two decorating the forseshore. The photo doesn’t quite do the scale of it justice – it’s enormous. A cheerful dementor? An octopus? I can’t decide.
We eventually wander back to the harbour for l’apero, the delightfully French habit of rounding out the afternoon with drinks and a nibble. Who am I to argue, when in Rome etc…
The following day calls for lunch. A fix of Asian food, at last! We enjoy pork spring rolls, a perfect green curry with cod and an interesting take on a prawn stir fry. Trying to get the concept of sharing plates across to the waitress fails spectacularly, although I suspect she was somewhat off with the fairies.
Post lunch we wander the old city and pop in to well stocked Italian delicatessen to pick up a snack for dinner. So much of life in France revolves around food. Thinking about it, shopping for it, cooking it, eating it. It provides a rhythmically soothing structure to the day. A far cry from days trapped in the office when my days were punctuated only by coffee.
We see a skilled bit of ferry piloting when this captain breezes into harbour and flawlessly executes a reverse park into port.
Himself finally gets to see you the swing bridge in action – it was being refurbished the last time we were here.
I spot organic lawnmowers, goats with jobs, set out to ‘mow under the cliffs
A spectacular sunset ends the day. And I only fell a little bit guilty about doing very little at all….
