Well what a delightful surprise Saint Valery sur Somme turned out to be. It wasn’t on our original path but with a cornucopia of treasures to enjoy we end up staying not for one day but two.
Saint Valery sur Somme is best explored in three parts: the port, set on the mouth of the river Somme and its canals, the medieval village on the hill and between the two, the ‘newer’ village centre. The headlands flanking the Somme’s exit to sea are coastal marshes – endless flats filled with sea grasses, cut through by lakes, rivulets, streams and ponds attracting a wide variety of water birds. Much of it is beautifully wild landscape.
Best of all, there’s a steam train from the port that travels to the tip of both headlands. Now, it’s no secret that Himself and I have quite different interests. Keeps things interesting, lots of lively ‘discussion’ and zero chance of boredom 🤔. However, on certain points we’re in absolute agreement: we love stream trains. He has fond memories of catching one to boarding school, I adore their old world glamour, the chugga chugga chugga rythym of the railway track and the billowing steam plume when they’re working hard. The toot toot of the whistle, all the brass! Love it!
We elect a journey to the northern tip, to Le Crotoy. The walk to the port is a bit of a gem – Google’s found a rambler’s path to the port. It’s a little green oasis we would have never spotted on our own.
We’re just in time to see the engine turn on a clever circular wheelhouse – it detaches, drives onto the circular platform whereup it’s spun to align to the required track, then chugs up to the front of the train to be reconnected for its reverse journey. Ingenious, and in such a small space. We’re lucky to see the process a few times throughout our journey.
Our ride to Le Crotoy is through the marshes. Along our way, we see ports, Henson horses unique to the area, occasional sheep, storks and lots of different types of herons. Crops too – corn, wheat and other grains, so the marshes must become fresh water at some point. Other stream trains chugg by, on their way to the southern headland. It’s clear our love of steam trains is well shared – motorists at crossings wave us by as does pretty much anyone that we pass, much to the delight of kids on board both young and, well, not so young. Himself spots a deer leaping through a field at one point – much excitement!
Our arrival in Le Crotoy aligns with lunch. Its a great business model – every day the train pulls up at lunch time, loaded with tourists that need to be fed. Le Crotoy is busy, busy, busy.
Seafood is the order of the day. Virtually every restaurant boasts it as a specialty and if restaurants aren’t your thing, there are plenty of fresh seafood mongers – the fishing boats are in the dock are only metres away.
Himself loves the classics – cod and chips for him, while I have langoustines and crab claws. Fiddly, but delicious. Peach Melba to finish – how have I never tasted this combo before? Refreshing and delicious. It’ll be appearing on my summer menu.
We board the train mid afternoon for the return trip. It’s a lovely re-run of our earlier journey, just as exciting. I don’t think I sat down once. I manage to take pics I missed last time – the canal lochs, a cute train carriage granny flat in someone’s back yard, lots of trains and of course endless natural beauty.
It’s been a great day out – back at the mouth of the Somme we’re two happy little possums.
The following day we explore the ‘centre ville’ of Saint Valery sur Somme and the medieval village. I’m temporarily mesmerised by bumbles and flowers – the centre is delightfuly full of both.
The centre is a century or two newer than the medieval village but still full of beautiful old buildings, many of which are atileirs for ceramics, sculpture and art.
The medieval village meanwhile is a portal to the 15th and 16th centuries. Cut flint features in prominent buildings, inlaid in patterns throughout sandstone and limestone finishes. Gorgeous! It’s not a technique I’ve seen before – it produces a really striking feature wall.
There’s a the two nave Eglise Saint Martin (constructed from 1488 into the 26th century) with its beautiful stained glass windows. The side of the church is also pictured above.
We also see the 16th century Nevers Gate, once also used as the village prison.
We potter around for a while taking it all in. I learn later that we missed out on seeing a mediaeval herb garden and the largest seal colony in France. I would’ve liked to have seen both. Seals!!!!
Saint Valery sur Somme is a truly beautiful place. I hope we manage to revisit it one day.
Miss Baci Travels 