There’s been much debate weighing our options to arrive in Caen by month’s end. Touring the Loire chateau was put forward (me of course). The WWI and WWII sites (Himself, obviously). The sparkle of Versailles (me again – I could spend weeks in Versailles and not tire of it) but it’s perilously to close to Olympic fever and very likely to be overrun by early arrivals, keen to explore pre Games. In the end it’s decided relatively amicably, with options for everyone: the champagne region, followed a visit to Fromelle’s Australian war memorial then along the northern coast all the way to Caen. Having been in endless villages, up mountains, along valleys, rivers and through farmland, the sea should offer a nice change of pace.
So decided, we plot a course northwest towards Champagne’s greenery, stopping only for L’Epine’s magnificent Notre Dame L’Epine. Amongst the many things I love about France are her unexpected treasures – in amongst farmland, a 700 year basilica rises around a bend.
Fierce gargoyles guard all sides. They serve a dual purpose – they’re also water spouts. Quite a fabulous sight when it’s raining, last spotted in the Notre Dame in Paris on a rainy birthday. Water shoots through their mouths creating graceful arcs around the building’s perimeter. Spectacular.
Parts of this Basilica were destroyed during the Revolution, plundered for other buildings or sadly destroyed. We come across recovered bits and pieces inside and learn that the church underwent restoration in the 1800s.
The Basilica is just as glorious inside. Stained glass windows soar on all sides, indispersed with chapels painted with medieval frescos and decorated with beautiful sculptures. Medieval churches can be quite a colourful affair.
The centre choir is intricately carved limestone and there’s even a well inside. We learn that up until the 17th century it was common to bring chests and farm animals into the chapels for safe keeping – that well would have come in very handy.
We’re travelling through the Loraine region, so it’s fitting that we have quiche Lorraine for lunch along the way. Our route boasts an excellent Boulangerie Patisserie – delicious quiche (inhaled too quickly to photograph) and a dazzling display of patisserie that wouldn’t be out of place in Paris. I spy a couple of Foret Noire. I’m sure you’ll understand – it would have been rude to leave them behind. Utterly delicious they were too. On the way out, I’m rewarded with a glimpse behind the scenes – the boulanger preparing tomorrow’s dough in a mixer large enough to drive. He’s working in a space only a few metres square yet churning out endless delights. I’ve had bigger offices….
Vine plantings herald our arrival in Epernay at day’s end. We settle in a green Aire within an apple orchard. There’s just enough light left to see the hospital chapel at the end of our street and admire architectural loveliness. Bubbles will need to wait until tomorrow.
Miss Baci Travels 