Some places are picture postcard pretty – Egiusheim and Riquewihr certainly come to mind. Brightly coloured, flush with blooms, they’re the peacocks of French village life. Hunspach meanwhile is a white swan, serene and elegant, lifted straight out of the pages of a fairytale.
Set on the far northern edge of the French/German border, Hunspach owes its charm to Swiss refugees, granted farmland here at the end of the Thirty Year War. They set about building traditional U shaped homes with the living area, barn and stables set around a central courtyard.
We take the well detailed self guided tour. Each house is clearly marked with a brief explanation of its features. At one point I detect the comforting smell of cows – there’s a working farm at the village’s edge. Truly country life.
An occasional annexe has been built in to create a mini cottage, possibly for elves or a fairy. Oh so pretty. One house even has a mini replica as a letterbox.
Most of Hunspach’s buildings are from the 16th and 17th centuries with white cob walls and half timbered frontages. They have centre entrance doors that lead directly into the living area. Many have unusual convex glass windows, designed to allow residents to look out freely but obscure the view in. Old school ingenuity.
Flowers abound, made all the prettier by their contrast to the simple black and white backdrop. If there was any one thing I’d export home from France it’s the beautification of public areas. Homes, paths, even roundabouts are exquisitely beflowered and decorated for everyone’s pleasure. The French truly believe that proximity to beauty improves life. I couldn’t agree more.
We see the Protestant church built in 1757, its bell tower added in 1874. It’s a very modest affair. I must admit, I’m rather fond of a bit of Catholic bling. Our travels have made me quite conscious that we have churches to thank for the creation and preservation of a great deal of early art. Hunspach is somewhat unusual in that it’s always been a Protestant village.
We had planned on lunch but unfortunately have landed on a day the restaurant is closed, so it’s lunch at home and back on the road to further our quest northwest.
I absolutely loved Hunspach. It’s a long way from well worn travel paths, and oh so much better for its isolation. Set the heart of the Parc Naturel Regional des Vosges du Nord, I can picture a Snow White life here, surrounded by creatures, flowers, fruit trees and a vegetable patch (almost every village house has both). My market basket would fit right in. Bliss.
Not for the first time, I completely understand Marie Antoinette’s urge to recreate a farm village on the grounds of Versailles. If you’re ever there, do not miss this part of Versailles’ grounds. It’s charm itself. A half timbered village, farm animals and vegetable patch, with a stream running through it, set aside from the Chateau’s endless gilt and glamour, but still absolutely fit for a queen. My bags are packed and ready to go. There or Hunspach – perfectly happy with either. I know Marie Antoinette would agree.
Miss Baci Travels 