We’ve finally made our way out of the vastness of the French Alps. I had no idea they were so extensive – over 1,000 km in length, if Google is to be believed. The land of sunshine, lavender and steep slopes, beautiful Provence whose colours shine so brightly, is sadly behind us too. Truly sublime at this time of year. Lavender in bloom never disappoints.
We arrive in Vizille today, from the 14 century traditionally home to the Dauphine, next in line to inherit the French throne. Well at least up until the Revolution when heads rolled in the Terror. More on that later.
We’re here to tour the grandly imposing 17th century Chateau de Vizille, now home to a public garden and the sole museum dedicated to the French Revolution.
Set within a remarkable 100 hectares, the grounds include meticulously manicured gardens, a deer park and a grand canal water feature. My kind of place. I’m completely at a loss to understand why I don’t have a chateau of my own. I’m sure I deserve at least a small one.
The gardens have to be explored first. Gorgeous! Manicured perfection, expansive grassed parklands and excitingly, home to some 200 deer. We walk for ages in search of them before I realise how large the grounds are. Nary a flicker of a deer’s tail, plenty of ducks, geese and huge fish though, all hopeful of a snack.
Grounds thoroughly explored we’re ready to tour the museum. It’s extensive, over many floors with displays ranging from commemorative ceramics, art works, the declaration of rights carved in marble, military swords, uniforms, political cartoons and historical records.
There’s one critical aspect I feel is missing though – any mention of the Terror, the guillotine and the thousands who were brutally beheaded. There was a cost to freedom. When I first came to Paris decades ago, I searched for its landmarks only to find them remarkably well hidden. I wanted to walk the footprint of the Bastille, see the location of Madam Guillotine and trace the fall of Versailles. It may have been brutal, violent and bloody but it did happen. I was surprised to have to search for it then and decades on, I’m suprised to see history sanitized here. In the only museum dedicated to the Revolution. A case of history being judged and edited with a modern lens perhaps?
A much gentler and elegant pace is found in the Chateau’s ornate rooms, their beautiful furnishings and the gowns of the period. Great views over the grounds too and just look at that magnificent library – I could loose many a happy month there.
All of the above, the gorgeous grounds, access the to museum and to the chateau are free to the public. What a wonderful resource for the people of Vizille and travellers alike.
I learn later (my lack of French failing me at the museum) that the Chateau’s owner Claude Perier was responsible for a forbidden but key inaugural meeting of some 500 men in July 1788, widely recognised as the first part of the French Revolution. It was this act that supported his and his family’s survival through the Terror. I’m glad. He’s left such beauty in the world today.
Miss Baci Travels 