2024 Day 43 – Estaing

The morning starts with a last walk through Capdenac-le-Haut, ostensibly in search of a Boulangerie but we’re out of luck – closed.  I do spot this bunny cheekily set with a strategic view.

Himself sets our path to Estaing, a Les Plus Beaux Village in Aveyron, just past the Gorges of the Lot.  It’s another perfect Spring day – French weather this late in the season is proving a delight. 

The countryside is gloriously green along our path, freshly tilled earth a rich oxide red in contrast.   It’s soon apparent that our way to Estaing is via the Gorges.  Rising 300 metres into the sky, the drive wraps around not one, but two mountains in one hairpin turn after the other.  There’s no doubting this is a beautiful drive, despite the very occasional squeak I emit when accidentally looking over the side to see a sheer drop below.  We scale the both mountains on both sides – four full sets of hairpin turns, one after the other, that never seem to end.

On first sight, Estaing is breathtaking.  Set alongside the Lot River, its arched bridge is listed as part of the UNESCO World Heritage Heritage Routes of Santiago de Compostela – the pilgrims’ path to the church of the same name in Northwest Spain. We’ve seen the walkers finish their trek in the church square, exhilarated by their achievement having treked many hundreds of kilometres.

An imposing Castle built in a series of architectureal styles overlooks the village.   Built by the Estaing family, they boast an impressive family line – in 1214 one of them saved the King’s life, there’s a cardinal and head of the Papal states and a Vice Admiral who went on to distinguish himself in battle in the American war of independence. I read that the Chateau’s most recent owner, a French ex president, also is also an Estaing.  High achievers alround it seems.

Across from the castle is the 15th century church, Eglise Saint-Fleuret, featuring gilded wooden alter pieces and carefully housed relics of the saint for which the church is named.  Those steps would make for stunning wedding photos!

Compostela walkers join us on our tour of the village which features Renaissance houses and interestingly quirky examples of the period around every corner.  It’s all very lovely.   I’m very impressed by the little cat stairs one resident has installed.  One’s own private catwalk.

On the way back we spot a cool mini truck version on the classic Citroen 2CV, but it’s the view across the river that has me endlessly mesmerised.  I was lucky to get a partially reflective shot earlier – the wind’s whipped any chance away now.